Saturday, December 03, 2005

december post

I have been here another month or so.

The rains have come. Big, fast-moving, deep blue thunderheads, carried on strong winds that drop anything from light showers to downpours. Dark skies with lighting and thunder that shift unexpectedly as the days go.

My house is thatched with grass. I have put black polyethylene plastic underneath the grass to keep myself reasonably dry. Locals say the grass doesn’t leak, while expatriates say it does. Given my tolerance for being wet is more likely on the expatriate side, I have put plastic. I may add that the rain repellent of grass is not helped by local cows considering my roof a delicacy.

Work is going well. I am beginning to understand the structure, the time table, and the general work that my counterparts have (those that I am working in HIV with, all Zambian as of now). It is not frustrating, rather an interesting learning experience. Isn’t it all though?

I might add that my learning curve would be a lot steeper if I spoke Tonga fluently or was a local. Oh well, one I am working on and the other I cannot help.

Speaking of which, I have found a local teacher with whom I will continue formal Tonga lessons. This will be in conjunction with the popular local method of speaking to me in very fast Tonga and expecting my understanding. I appreciate the contributions of both, but I am looking forward to the learning on two fronts.

I will be in my community for the holidays and am looking forward to both seeing how they are celebrated here and spending some quality time in my community.

Physically and mentally, I feel fit. I don’t find myself ill or battling shock or depression. I am eating well and have found good friends in my community that sustain me. I am also keeping occupied learning about HIV, nutrition, agriculture, and the culture in my community.

I have felt my patience deepening and am working on my compassion as I am judged constantly. These are challenges I have readily accepted as I endeavor to continue strengthening these qualities that I value.

I hope these words find everyone healthy and surrounded by joy.

love. niko.

Friday, October 14, 2005

second month text

I am still well here in Zambia, enjoying life and learning lots.

Relish (beans, soy pieces, cabbage, collards/rape, meat, fish), or that which is eaten with nshima (stiff maize porridge), is difficult to find these days. Many cite a lac k of money, water, or a garden from which they may draw food. A consistent request from many living here is that they want a borehole/pump as water is difficult to find.

I survive by going to town for staples (peanut butter, ground maize, sugar, oil) and buying produce near my village. These are options for me since I have a source of income and no family which enables me to stretch out my food in a way others can’t. Since I have no family it takes me about a month to go through what others may finish in a few days.

The HIV/AIDS work is going well. I am helping my community form a community AIDS task force (CATF), which should allow more communication and learning among the various clubs and support groups here in Keemba zone. I am also assisting as an HIV/AIDS teacher outside my zone with colleagues in the field.

I am also finding that I spend a considerable amount of time in the nearby town (Monze) and the capital (Lusaka), as I update reports, find information, and network with those doing HIV work here in Zambia.. I think my travel may be a result of working in HIV and my assigned role as a liaison between my community, the Ministry of Health, and others doing HIV work here.

The travel may also be a reflection of the community in which I live, as there are daily multiple vehicles that go to Monze in the morning and return in the afternoon for those with business there. I may add that this is an option for those with money, but is an obstacle for many that live in the village, as the cost of transport may buy a weeks worth of maize for a family.

I may add that the relatively easy transport does not appear to be common among other Peace Corps sites nor does my relative proximity to the capital city (~6 hours from my hut doorstep to Lusaka). A colleague of mine said that the transport may reflect the past wealth of the area in terms of livestock and agriculture which has decreased due to both the current drought and HIV. Though this means my Peace Corps experience may be a bit “citified”, the easy transport may be assumed a comparatively higher HIV infection rate than other rural areas, making my presence worthwhile.

Other than that, I am preparing a small garden, building small things around the house, and preparing to plant for the rainy season (November-April). When I first arrived, the headman offered to give me land to farm, which I am taking him up on. I, with some agricultural experts, will hopefully plant a demonstration farm to show methods that may decrease water and fertilizer dependency.

We will see. It should be a learning experience all around.

I hope everyone is doing well.

love, niko.

more pictures



This is ba-phiri. he is my ministry of health counterpart and rocks! He is always smiling and loves to joke. we have a lot of fun together.






This is my good friend Ba-Clay. He is close to my age and we chat often.







This is my house. self-explanatory I think.








This is ba-lumba. She is finishing certification to be a teacher of history and Tonga language. She also stays at the compound when she is not in school.








this is hamagaye. he is the same age as Ba- Bonanza, but he is one year ahead at school. They are both helping me learn Chi-Tonga.







this is ba-bonanza. he lives in the same compound and is a son of the headman. He is 19 years old and we hang out when he is not in school. He is currently in 11th year.









This is mrs. Chilumbii and Joy. Mrs. chilumbii is one wife of the headman and joy I believe is her daughter. Mrs. Chilumbii is the headmistress of the basic school and I believe I have explained what she does previously.

Monday, September 12, 2005

new update

Hi Again,
Roughly a month here and as far as I can tell, I am doing well. Zambians are telling me I have become fat (means I look healthy as my weight has not changed so much, still ~150 lb).

I live in Hakainda village, founded by the father of the headman in whose compound I currently live (headman is traditional village leader). I have a two room grass-thatched hut, a cooking shelter, and a ventilated improved pit latrine in progress (here in town today buying cement for those things).

Hakainda is in Keemba Zone, about 34 km from the main road that leads to either Lusaka or Livingstone. Monze town is at that junction as well, and is where I do business (pop ~160,000, about 3 hours from Lusaka). Monze has internet and I have access to computer services at the District Health Office where I can look at Health Statistics to my little hearts delight. Internet is fast though expensive (not available at the Health Office, ~400 K per minute, 1000 K can buy my meals for the day if I cook).

Hakainda is about 3 km from Keemba. Keemba is a reasonably large rural town that has electricity and a basic school (grades 1-9, Keemba pop. ~2,000). It also has a rural health center where I do some work.

I am supposedly in charge of the HIV/AIDS activities in Keemba Zone (pop. ~12,000, >12 main villages). I am currently in the process of learning about the place and determining where I will concentrate my efforts. My community is quite motivated and has been teaching me a lot about their home and how I might help with HIV/AIDS in the area.

I live on the same land as Ba-Chilumbi, his children, and wives (4 total and many children, he said 87 and it might be close). One wife is the headmistress of Keemba Basic School and is quite well versed in community based organization goings on and HIV/AIDS. All are very welcoming and good friends that help me quite a bit with anything I need to do.

Anyhoo, I will endeavor to update monthly as I get to town about 2 times a month. There is a bird/wildlife sanctuary about 14 km from where I stay, supposedly quite cool for any that would like to visit. I plan on visiting soon and regularly as there is some wildlife (flora and fauna) that makes me dumbfounded at its’ beauty.

I hope everyone is well and life is good.

Take care all.

Love, niko.

Saturday, August 06, 2005


This is my language group. We spent about 4 hours each day together learning Tonga. The fellow with the small child is our language and cross-culture liaison/teacher. We also did site visits together, meaning that we visited villages as a group. We all basically get along well and have gotten to know each other pretty well. This photo is Me, Renee, Natalie, Ryvin, Cryvin, and Spring taken when we were sworn in as volunteers.




This is some friends in the HIV and AIDS project group. We took a walk to a dam and posed for shots. Me, Matt, Fraser (blonde) and Katie. Fun group, we have fun and like to laugh.











This is Ethan, obviously an adorable 3-month old child that I was fortunate enough to stay with while here in training. Cute, eh?













This is Leon. I actually have a short video of him dancing that is hilarious. He is totally cute and often stared at me with his big eyes. He is one happy fella.






That is some pics for you all. Things are good and will try to update again in a month or so.

best. niko.

about to post




















This is my host family with whom I stayed during training. Pictured are my host mother and father (Mr and Mrs Milimo Miyoba, back) along with Busiku (front young girl), Viola and her 1 year old son Leon. Mrs. Miyoba has their 3 month old son strapped to her back.

I will try and post more pics.

-------------------------posting-------------------------------------------------

Hi All,
I am about to get taken to the village where I will be living for the next two years.

I do not really feel so nervous and am really looking forward to staying in one place for a while as training has been hectic with me sleeping all over the place. I think I might feel differently if I had not lived in other places “alone” before. I don’t know how alone I will actually be as I will be in a village surrounded by very curious Zambians.

I am staying right now at a PCVL (Peace Corps Volunteer Leader) house in Choma that houses the provincial leader for Southern Province.

Computer access here is pretty good, but this place is about 3-4 hours from my village and I don’t see making regular trips here for e-mail purposes. I will probably wait and head up to Lusaka and visit friends there rather than come here.

Language is going well, I passed a proficiency exam, and look forward to actually speaking regularly while here in Southern Province. I am learning quite a bit as I practice with locals here on a regular basis.

I have purchased a cell phone for ease of my work here and for people in–country and out of country to get a hold of me. Number is 097-410-730.

We are currently awaiting petrol so that we can be transported to our sites. Apparently it is affecting the posting of PC volunteers all over Zambia as most of us are just waiting at the provincial houses in each of the seven provinces that we are being posted to. So we are hanging out in a house together and reading and eating and trying not to spend our PC stipend (Four HIV volunteers are still here as there was enough petrol to post three of the seven of us. There are three LIFE (Linking Income to Food and the Environment) volunteers coming to southern province as well).

The petrol situation is unclear and I have heard varying reports of what is going on.

Anyway, that is news from Zambia for now. I may try and update in the next few days when near a computer or will leave it until I come into Choma again (about a month to celebrate the birthday of one of the HIV volunteers).

Take care and best to all.
Love, Niko.

Friday, July 08, 2005

update

I am currently in Livingstone relaxing after attending a second site visit.

The second site visit was near Monze town in the Southern Province of Zambia. Three other trainees and I facilitated a workshop for about 30 Zambians (adults) about HIV/AIDS. I presented parts of the immune system and assisted with other things.

We had a language and technical trainer that functioned as mentors and assistants with translating to the villagers.

It was fun though exhausting and we are now at a campground doing some R and R before heading to a District health meeting in each of the districts that we will be working in. I will go and present my background and working plans to district Ministry of health officials. After that I will head to Lusaka to hang with Emory folks and finally to Mwekera to finish training.

I am finally getting used to the pace, which is comical as this pace will be over in the next couple weeks and I will be operating on village time, which is apparently verrrrrry slow. I am looking forward to changing gears though.

I have found out that I will be near Monze town for my 2-year Peace Corps service in a village/area called Keemba. It is where my host mother’s family is from and she is very excited to visit during my stay. I got a chance to check out Monze and feel as if it is bigger than the town I grew up in. I will only be 30 km from it, which will make my stay here less “bush” than I had previously thought. I will probably be able to check e-mail about every month in theory, so we will see.

The previous address for the Choma house will work for mail and I will post any address that I get in Monze. Monze is a 3-4 hour bus drive from Lusaka and roughly the same from Livingstone for any of you that would like to visit. Transport is very easy to Monze, though I have yet to figure out how easy it will be to my site.

Anyway, this is the second post as my other one was lost after about an hour of work so I will try it now.

Love and hugs to all and I hope everyone is enjoying good health and company.

Amusyaale (stay well)

Niko.

Sunday, June 12, 2005

in Zambia

Hi All.
I have been on a whirlwind tour of Zambia in the past three weeks (or so).

Upon arriving we stopped in Lusaka for about 36 hours, during which I visited the main office and got a lot of paperwork, lectures, etc..

We then moved to the Central Province where I had a site visit for 5 days in the Kubundi district. We split up in Lusaka into our 4 language groups (Tonga for me, southern province of Zambia).

We basically lived in a village with a language instructor and saw what some current volunteers do for this time.

After that, we headed to our training site near Kitwe town in the Kitwe district at a place called Mwekera. I moved into a Tonga-speaking homestay and have been living with them for the training which consists of at least 8-hour days, 6 days a week involving language, technical, and other skill development.

I am incredibly busy and have just now been getting adjusted to my new life (for the next 6 weeks).

After that I will head to the Southern Province where I will be put in a new site previously untouched by PC volunteers. I will then have lots of time.

I have figured out some things such as: I will not have a phone and e-mail will be every three months or so. Snail mail is the best bet and the address for the next two years is as follows:

Niko Welch
Peace Corps
P.O. Box 630569
Choma, Southern Province, Zambia

I am very well though my schedule is kicking my booty. Today is my day off and I already washed all my clothes (by hand) and helped cook nshima for lunch. My homestay father is waiting for me so we can do a bit of planting upon my return.

Love and hugs to all.

Best.

Niko.

(i'll try to update before I head into the field, but no promises as my day off is pretty hectic)

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

heading out

Hi All,
Just wanted to update everyone about what has been going on in relation to my Peace Corps service.

I have basically finished my Master's of Public Health degree and am only finishing up loose ends like communication and presentation of my thesis work regarding instant noodles to various folks that assisted me during the project.

I will be in Zambia for Peace Corps working as an HIV/AIDS community mobilizer. I have what experience I have garnered in the past two years here at Emory, at the international AIDS conference in Bangkok, and at various volunteer positions I have had while here in Atlanta.

I have much more to learn though (don't we all).

I will be leaving the country from Philadelphia the 24th of May for Zambia and plan on being there about 2 months for training in Kitwe (northern Zambia) after which time I will be assigned to a post (village, I hope) in another part of Zambia.

When posted, I will have to remain there without leaving for the first three months. After that, I will be allowed to visit cities and/or leave my post.

Peace Corps service lasts two years and I may extend another year. Depends on the situation.

You all are welcome to visit after I have been at my post for three months (not allowed before then) and I recommend that you wait at least 6 months so that I know my way around.

I may take a trip to Guinea/Senegal in search of djembe knowledge at some point, so let me know if anyone is interested in meeting up.

E-mails for the duration are equatoriano2003@yahoo.com and niko74@gmail.com.

Mail can be sent during training in Kitwe to Nicholas Welch/PCT, c/o Peace Corps, PO Box 21527, Kitwe, Zambia.

I will update my two-year address when I know which region I will be assigned to.

Feel free to post to this site, keeping in mind my web access is going to be limited for the next coupl years.

Best to all.

niko.

Wednesday, May 04, 2005

testing

Just testing to see how this works.


niko.